Trip reports, ramblings, photos and videos from our life in Europe. Please feel free to send comments and keep me updated with your emails!

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

The Most Beautiful Vegetable Boxes I've Ever Seen


You might remember our favorite place in France, Le Couvent, in the Languedoc region. Lizzie, one of the proprietors and our new friend, has one of the most talented nephews I've ever met. Josh can take a grassy area, develop it, plant seedlings and grow them into the most beautiful fruit and veg. He grows vegetables in several gardens around the property and sells the fruits of his labor to area residents in lovingly created vegetable boxes. I read where his chickens are now producing eggs as well...more for the boxes!




Learn more about Josh and his business in his blog! If only he could export...

Monday, July 23, 2007

Another Visitor From Across the Pond

Last Tuesday my good friend Trey Dodd arrived in London to spend a couple of weeks. He has been the guinea pig in testing my talents as a London tour guide. Considering I hadn't seen all the hot spots myself, I appreciated his patience as we traipsed around London. I do have to say that I saw more of London last week than I have seen since I arrived. It is a fabulous city and I'm sure I still won't see all of it by the time we leave in a couple of years, either.

Highlights of our wandering around included Westminster Abbey where I saw the tombs of Queens Elizabeth and Mary (Bloody Mary)...half sisters with Henry VIII as a father (unless you believe some of the conspiracy theories); The Monument to the great fire of 1666 where we climbed 311 steps of a spiraling staircase to the top and a fabulous view of the city; and the Tate Modern-sorry to all of you modern art fans, but I don't get it; The Tower of London where I saw the exact location of Anne Boleyn's beheading as well as her final resting place; The British Museum which had some fascinating artifacts and some "acquired" Greek pieces from the Parthenon.

This weekend we all headed to Wales for a camping trip with our friends Lilly and Aron. You might have seen some news coverage about Great Britain enduring the worst flooding in 60 years....we didn't care. We headed out anyways. We figured the worst that could happen is that we may get a little wet or our roads might be flooded (in which case we would just turn back around). After touring a beautiful castle that just happened to be on our way, we found a great campsite next to a rushing river...well, not exactly next to it...up the hill a little...a safe distance away. While pretty muddy and slightly misty, we found a good plot under a tree. Surprisingly, it didn't rain on us at all until 9am the next morning. But we didn't mind...it just meant we were forced to sleep for three more hours listening to the light rain tap the top of our tents. Now THAT's a relaxing Sunday!

Lilly, Trey, and I will take a few road trips to round out his tour of the UK. I'm sure by the time all of you come ;), I will have my skills finely tuned and I'm sure you will have a great time.

Saturday, July 14, 2007

A Surprise to Ring in the New Decade


Last Wednesday, July 11th, I turned 30! Notice I used the exclamation point...because I am excited about this new decade. If it is anything like the actual day, it is sure to be the best one ever.


A few weeks ago, Edgar told me to buy a new dress because he was taking me out for my birthday! So, a quick call to Catalina and Charlie, and off we went. I got a very fun black and white, calf-length, V-neck dress and some fun new black patent leather peep-toe chunky heels. When Edgar arrived home from work, with 2 dozen pink roses in tow, I was ready to go, with my best smokey eyes, red lipstick, and feathered hair. Shawn, Charlie's husband, had recently taken a trip to the States, and apparently had brought a special gift back for me from Edgar. As we were about to leave, Edgar received a call from Shawn saying he was running late from the office and would need more time in order to get me the gift. I wondered why the boys had just not made the exchange at the office, since they work in the same building...I summed it up to poor logistics. Secretly, I was happy we would need to stop by their house to pick up the gift, because I wanted to show Charlie my dress as I was all primped up. When we got to their house, Edgar ran inside while I waited in the car, and then ran back out saying , "Charlie wants to see your dress, but make it quick because we are late for the reservations." So I run up the sidewalk, in my heels, and Shawn answers the door apologizing for making us late. As I walk through the house to get to Charlie, I see sparkly streamers, and then all of my London friends there in the kitchen saying "SURPRISE!"
We had such a blast with the 70's inspired decor, including people's outfits-ladies with their mini-dresses, and the guys with unbuttoned shirts and chest hair in full force. The food was amazing-parma ham with melon to start, a whole poached salmon and salad for the main, and of course the delicious chocolate cake for dessert. You can't forget the wine! It was plentiful, perfect, and lasted until the very end.

I was 100% completely surprised and then still not convinced they were there all for me for a whole party! I asked, "Are you going with us to the restaurant?" Charlie laughed and said, "This is the restaurant...tonight I am Italian!" Edgar had told me we were eating Italian and it was a 35 minute drive from our house. I felt very special to be able to drive to the restaurant and not take the Tube. Although, I knew it had to be somewhere close to be able to get there in only 35 minutes. Charlie had taken me to lunch earlier in the day (THANKS CHARLIE!) and asked if I knew where we were going. She threw some options out, we pondered if it would be this place or that. I don't know how she kept a straight face.

Edgar has told me the integral part that Catalina and Charlie played in this big surprise. I would like to thank them here for their work in putting everything together. I feel so truly blessed to have made such wonderful friends half way around the world. Who knew that our circumstances would have put us all together? I would like to thank Alex for recommending the "sinful" chocolate cake...it was delicious and required many prayers. Aron, you are truly amazing. Thank you for being here on my special day. I know you had many other things on your mind and I feel so honored to have had you at the table. Nick and Shawn-thanks for always keeping my glass full...yes, I am thanking you believe it or not. And last but not least, thanks to my wonderful husband for having such a surprise for me. You all made my 30th completely unforgettable and made this American girl feel like British royalty-a Queen!

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

le Tour de France...the Real Deal!


You may remember me mentioning previously that the Tour de France was beginning in London this year. Our friends from the States, Mauricio and wife Faviola, were visiting us these past few weeks, and since Mauricio loves cycling, he couldn't have picked a better time to be here.


Saturday was the prologue, where they do the individual time trials. We made our way to Hyde Park to camp out for the day and catch all the action. The bikes were so cool. The tires looked more like gigantic CD's, they were so thin. When they rolled past, it sounded like bees humming.


We were not able to see them on Sunday as they began their journey to Canterbury, but there is always next year, right? Or there is even still this year...the tour lasts for three weeks! It was such an awesome experience to see this event. It's one I never thought I would get to see in person. Granted, it would have been even more awesome had it been a few years ago when Lance was in the running. I hope you enjoy the photos and I created a little video of our raw footage as well. We had a great viewing area right on the barricades.

Wednesday, July 04, 2007

EdVon Tour de France: 8 Victory Laps


Stages 7-9, Tuesday, June 26th-Thursday, June 28th: Le Couvent
The big iron gates creaked open from the unassuming entry and we took a tentative step inside, not knowing quite what to expect. The sound of our footsteps on the gravel driveway signaled to our hostesses that new friends had arrived. Lizzie was out the front door as soon as she realized we were there. I have never received a welcome such as this. To say it was wonderful or enthusiastic would be generic. This welcome was truly genuine, one to expect from only old friends and family after a long time apart. Three cheek kisses in true French fashion and an extra pair of arms to haul our luggage upstairs to our room. After the grand tour we sat down to a glass of wine with also now Ali who has joined us.

They ask if we would like to go with them to walk the dogs and pick figs for the next morning’s breakfast. We jump at the opportunity. Within a few miles we were in the middle of a vineyard at the top of a hill and Edgar was forging our path to the fig tree. Along the way we passed an almond tree brimming with young fruit. We broke some open and tasted the creamy, sweet almond inside, and then we picked a few for the morning feast. Lizzie says she loves the vineyard because you could live in it. I believe her.

Breakfast is a feast. Breads and pastries from the local boulangerie, fresh fruit from the vineyard and market, and delicious coffee. We were even lucky enough to get an egg one morning from their chicken. Gathered in the huge kitchen around a wooden table that could probably seat 20 or more people, we converse with the other guests about our day’s plans and swap stories from our trip. It’s like a reunion everyday.

This place is peaceful. A converted convent, it has been so lovingly restored by Lizzie and Ali that somehow they were able to change the walls and floors but keep the atmosphere of tranquility. Our room was grand and reached by ascending a staircase whose steps are still worn by centuries of nuns and school children running up and down. The sun peeks in every morning to let you know it’s time to greet the day and the clock tower strikes on the half hour in case you need a reminder.

Our remaining days in Languedoc were spent on the beach, meandering through old villages and getting to know Roujan. It is here that I think we got a true feel for the French culture. Store hours are roughly 9-12ish and 3ish to 6:30ish. Lizzie and Ali are actually British transplants (via some other places) and were able to really tell us about the lifestyle from a unique point of view. We like it.

On the last day our goodbye was just as genuine as our hello. After only three days we felt as if we were old friends and our goodbye was really just an “until next time”.

Stage 10-12: The Loire Valley
Our final stop was the Loire Valley. It was a long drive, about 5 ½ hours, but one of the most beautiful I’ve ever taken. The roads were wide and winding, cresting the tops of mountains and dipping into the valleys below. Along the way, we crossed the longest bridge in the world (unless I guess you count I-10 through Louisiana!) in Millau. I haven’t been able to confirm that it is also the tallest, but I do know it is higher than the Eiffel Tower…it had a pretty impressive view of the gorge below.

Somehow, our SatNav found our final B&B, Les Moulins des Vontes, in Esvres-Sur-Indre. It is at the end of a very narrow road in a town so small that it doesn’t even show up on the road signs until you are about 3 miles away. This place was spectacular. It sits in the middle of the Indre River and is an old watermill. The wheels no longer turn, but the owners have restored the three buildings…one is their home, one is kind of a very large playhouse, and the third houses the guest rooms. We were on the top floor and enjoyed sleeping with our window open, letting the rush of water lull us to sleep. They have a beautiful garden where we picked fresh raspberries and strawberries, and the flowers there were just beautiful. They have the biggest hydrangea bushes I have every seen. They also have a load of ducks. Most are just docile and swim around eating little bugs. But one in particular is very old and cranky. He actually hisses at you! Guess he is their version of a guard dog…

We spent our last three days visiting chateau in the surrounding area, eating great food, and basically relaxing. We were very close to Amboise, which is the city where Leonardo da Vinci lived his last three years. They have made his palace of a house into a fascinating tourist destination, chronicling his inventions. IBM studied his drawings and made scale models of some of them. I never knew he was such a genius and was so ahead of his time. He thought up the precursors from the bicycle to the suspension bridge to even modern day transmissions…a really amazing genius. And you can’t forget his artwork as well!

The 8 Victory Laps: A Time for Reflection and Recollection
The Atkins Diet would never fly in France. These people eat more bread than any group of people I have every known. At any given time, as you stroll through these little towns, probably 50% of everyone you see will be carrying a baguette…under their armpit, in their bike basket, etc. I was so happy to get an egg that morning at Le Couvent. But I guess I can’t complain that my only options for breakfast were plain croissant, almond croissant, chocolate croissant…the dilemma!

I was afraid of encountering wine snobs when visiting the vineyards of such famous wines. But it was quite the opposite. They are so proud of what they make and want you to understand every aspect of the process and what makes their wines unique and stand out from the rest. Not everyone is a mass producer and they may only sell their wine within a 30 mile radius. They tend their vines as if they are babies. And when you pass by them, you can see the loving care taken. If you decide you like the less expensive wine better than the “Grand Cru”, that’s OK! Every single person we encountered told us that enjoying wine is to everyone’s individual taste. Finally, I sort of know how to read a French wine label… if says “Grand Cru”, then you know you have the ultimate of that producer’s wine and you better check your bank account before purchasing.

Champagne always goes through the same process, no matter who produces it. The grapes grow side by side on the hills. The mastery is in the mixing. Most of the time, if you pay an exorbitant amount of money for champagne, you are probably just paying for their advertising.

The highways are amazing. There are many tolls, so you pay for their great maintenance, but they are very well taken care of and even have their own radio station, so you are never without music, traffic reports and the news. Speaking of music, we heard some fabulous French pop music, and if I never have to hear Rihanna’s Umbrella song again, I will not be sad…ella, ella, ella, eh, eh, eh….listen and you’ll understand.

The women really do go topless and you will encounter many birthday suits on the beaches. It’s just what they do, and trust me, they ain’t all supermodels walking around.

Finally, France is a wonderful country. We love it…the food, the people, the lifestyle, the wine, everything. We were never treated with less than kindness. A “Bon Jour” and a smile go a long way. Meals were always a bit of an adventure as we never quite knew what we were ordering, but it was all delicious. After much thought, well it didn’t take much thought, we realized that 35 hour work weeks aren’t so bad. Is it so wrong to stop work for almost 3 hours in the middle of the day for a little siesta, espresso, and chat with friends? We can’t wait to go back…Au Revoir!